Why Willow Makes a Fine Plant Support

Willow has been used for centuries in British gardens and smallholdings, and for good reason. It is flexible, strong, and entirely renewable. A well-made willow obelisk or tripod looks far more at home among climbing beans and sweet peas than a metal frame or plastic netting. The natural colour blends with foliage, and the structure can be composted at the end of its useful life. For the kitchen gardener, willow supports are ideal for runner beans, peas, cucumbers, and cordon tomatoes. In the flower border, they suit clematis, nasturtiums, and morning glory. They are also cheap to make if you grow your own willow or buy a bundle of rods from a reputable supplier.

Choosing and Soaking Your Rods

The best willow for weaving is osier or almond willow, cut in winter when dormant. Rods should be long, straight, and free from side shoots. For a typical obelisk, you will need six to eight uprights of 1.8 to 2.4 metres, plus a dozen or more shorter rods of 1 to 1.5 metres for weaving. If you are using dried rods, they must be soaked before use. Place them in a water butt, trough, or even a clean dustbin filled with water. Soak for three to five days, or up to a week for thicker rods. They are ready when they bend around your finger without cracking. Freshly cut rods can be used immediately, but they may root where they touch the soil.

• Secateurs for trimming
• Strong gloves to protect your hands
• Natural jute twine or soaked willow for tying
• A water butt or large container for soaking

Weaving the Obelisk: A Step-by-Step Guide

Choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Clear any weeds and fork over the ground. Mark a circle about 30 to 45 centimetres across. Push the uprights into the soil around the circle, spacing them evenly. They should go in about 15 to 20 centimetres deep. Angle them slightly inward so they meet at the top. Gather the tops together and tie them firmly with a length of soaked willow or twine. Now begin weaving. Take a long rod and pass it over and under each upright, alternating as you go. Start near the bottom and work upwards. Push the weave down as you go to keep it tight. When one rod runs out, tuck the end behind an upright and start a new one, overlapping by at least two uprights. Continue until you reach just below the top tie. For extra strength, weave in a few diagonal rods.

Securing the Ends and Finishing the Structure

The ends of your weaving rods need to be secured so they do not spring out. Tuck them behind an upright and weave them back on themselves, or tie them off with a short piece of soaked willow. Wrap the willow around the end and the upright, then tuck the tail under a nearby weave. Avoid plastic twine if you want the support to be fully compostable. Once all ends are secure, trim any protruding tips with secateurs. Check the obelisk for gaps and add extra rods if needed. Give the structure a gentle shake to test its stability. If it wobbles, push the uprights deeper. Leave the obelisk to dry for a few days before planting up, so the willow shrinks and tightens around the ties.

Planting Up and Looking After Your Willow Support

Your willow support is now ready for the growing season. Plant climbing beans, peas, or tomatoes at the base of each upright. Water them in well. If you used fresh willow, keep an eye out for new shoots. These can be pinched off if you want to keep the structure neat, or left to grow for a leafy screen. Dried willow is less likely to root. During the season, check the ties and weave regularly. If a rod cracks, soak it again or replace it. After the harvest, you can leave the obelisk in place for winter interest, or store it under cover to extend its life. With care, a willow support will last two or three seasons before it becomes brittle and ready for the compost heap. Making your own is a satisfying smallholding skill that saves money and adds rustic charm to any kitchen garden.